Dealing with blemishes, lingering dark marks or uneven skin tone can make choosing skincare feel overwhelming. You may have considered vitamin C, retinoids or exfoliating acids, but there is another ingredient worth understanding: azelaic acid.
Azelaic acid is used in skincare to help address concerns such as acne, post-breakout pigmentation and certain forms of redness. Unlike exfoliating acids such as glycolic acid, it is not primarily used to remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface.
In Korean skincare, azelaic acid is available in different formulations, including serums, ampoules and toners. Choosing the right product depends on your skin concerns, the formulation and how well your skin tolerates it.
In this guide, we explain the benefits of azelaic acid, how to use it in your routine, what to know about combining it with other active ingredients, and how to choose a Korean skincare product in South Africa.
Looking for Korean skincare for blemishes or uneven skin tone? Explore The Seoul Palette's acne and blemish-care collection to browse relevant products and check current availability.
What Is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid used in skincare and dermatological treatments. It occurs naturally in certain grains, including wheat, barley and rye, and is also produced by yeasts found on human skin.
Although its name contains the word "acid", azelaic acid is not an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or beta hydroxy acid (BHA). It has different properties and uses from these exfoliating ingredients.
Azelaic acid is valued for several properties, including its effects on inflammation, acne-associated bacteria and processes involved in pigmentation.
Depending on the formulation and concentration, it may help:
- Improve the appearance of blemish-prone skin.
- Address certain forms of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
- Improve some symptoms associated with rosacea when used in an appropriate treatment.
- Promote a more even-looking complexion over time.
These benefits are not guaranteed. Results depend on the skin concern, the product and how it is used. Cosmetic skincare is also not automatically equivalent to prescription treatment.
What Are the Benefits of Azelaic Acid for Skin?
Azelaic acid is often described as a multi-tasking ingredient because it can be relevant to several skin concerns. Understanding what it can and cannot do will help you decide whether it deserves a place in your routine.
1. Azelaic Acid May Help Improve Post-Breakout Dark Marks
A breakout can disappear while leaving behind a brown or darker mark that remains long after the blemish has settled. This is often referred to as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Azelaic acid can help improve the appearance of certain forms of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation by influencing processes involved in melanin production. Melanin is the pigment responsible for skin colour.
However, not every mark left after a breakout is the same. Brown marks, red marks and indented acne scars have different causes and may need different approaches.
What to expect: Improvement takes time, and results vary. Azelaic acid will not erase every dark mark or correct indented scars.
Daily sun protection is also important when addressing uneven skin tone. Sun exposure can contribute to persistent or worsening pigmentation, so an active ingredient should not replace a consistent sunscreen routine.
2. It Can Be Useful for Acne-Prone Skin
Azelaic acid has properties that make it useful in acne treatment. It can help address processes associated with acne, including inflammation, acne-associated bacteria and the buildup of cells within follicles.
It may be worth considering if you experience blemishes alongside post-breakout marks.
However, azelaic acid is not a guaranteed solution for every type of acne. Deep, painful or scarring breakouts may need professional assessment and treatment.
If acne is your main concern, read our guide to Korean skincare for acne-prone skin in South Africa for advice on building a broader routine.
3. It May Help with Certain Forms of Redness
Azelaic acid is used in some treatments for rosacea, a chronic inflammatory skin condition that can involve persistent redness, flushing and acne-like bumps.
Its anti-inflammatory properties may help improve certain symptoms of rosacea. However, not all redness is caused by rosacea, and different skin conditions may require different treatments.
A cosmetic azelaic acid serum should not automatically be considered equivalent to a prescribed treatment.
If you experience persistent facial redness, frequent flushing, burning or recurring acne-like bumps, consider consulting a qualified healthcare professional. This is particularly important if your skin reacts easily to skincare products.
4. It May Support a More Even-Looking Complexion
Azelaic acid may help improve the appearance of uneven skin tone when pigmentation is related to processes it can address.
It can be particularly relevant to people dealing with blemishes and the discolouration that sometimes follows them. However, pigmentation can have several causes, and an ingredient that helps one type may be less useful for another.
If dark spots are your primary concern, explore our hyperpigmentation and acne scars collection for other skincare options.
Remember that consistent sun protection is an important part of managing the appearance of pigmentation.
Is Azelaic Acid Suitable for Sensitive Skin?
Azelaic acid is sometimes considered by people who want to address blemishes or uneven tone without relying on certain other active ingredients. However, it is not automatically suitable for sensitive skin.
Some people experience tingling, itching, burning, dryness or redness when using azelaic acid. These effects can depend on the concentration, formulation, other ingredients and condition of the skin barrier.
If your skin is easily irritated, consider the following:
- Choose a product with clear directions and a formulation suited to your needs.
- Introduce it gradually instead of adding it to an already complicated routine.
- Avoid applying it to broken or severely irritated skin unless advised by a healthcare professional.
- Use a moisturiser that your skin tolerates well.
- Stop using the product if irritation is persistent or worsening.
If you have rosacea, eczema or another diagnosed skin condition, ask a healthcare professional whether a particular azelaic acid product is appropriate for you.
Azelaic Acid in Korean Skincare: What Should You Look For?
Korean skincare products offer different ways to incorporate azelaic acid into a routine, including serums, ampoules and toners. Some formulations also include ingredients intended to support hydration or skin comfort.
For example, a product may combine azelaic acid with hyaluronic acid, which helps attract water, or Centella Asiatica, an ingredient commonly used in skincare formulated for soothing and skin comfort.
The presence of these ingredients does not guarantee that a formula will be gentle or suitable for everyone. The overall formulation, concentration and directions for use matter.
It is also worth remembering that Korean skincare is not inherently gentler or more effective than skincare from other markets. Individual products should be evaluated on their own ingredients, formulation and intended use.
When choosing a product, look beyond the headline ingredient. Check the full ingredient list, application instructions and suitability for your skin concerns.
How to Use Azelaic Acid in Your Korean Skincare Routine
Adding azelaic acid to your Korean skincare routine does not need to be complicated. The most important things are choosing a suitable formulation, introducing it gradually and avoiding too many potentially irritating active ingredients at once.
Follow these steps to help incorporate azelaic acid into your routine.
Step 1: Start with a Gentle Cleanser
Begin with a gentle cleanser suited to your skin type. Cleansing helps remove sunscreen, excess oil, makeup and everyday impurities so that you can apply your next skincare steps to clean skin.
Avoid using a harsh cleanser or combining several exfoliating cleansing products with your azelaic acid treatment, particularly when you are first introducing it.
Step 2: Apply Your Azelaic Acid Product
Follow the directions for your specific product, as serums and toners may have different application instructions.
For example:
- Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum: Apply 2–3 drops to clean, dry skin and gently pat or massage until absorbed.
- Purito Seoul Azelaic Acid 10 Kojic Tea Tree Serum: Shake the bottle 3–5 times to disperse the capsules, then apply evenly to the face and pat gently.
- Anua Azelaic Acid 3 Cica Skin Clarifying Toner: Apply after cleansing using a cotton pad or your fingertips, then gently pat over the face.
Avoid applying multiple azelaic acid products together. Choose one formulation at a time so that you can assess how your skin responds.
Step 3: Introduce It Gradually
If you are new to azelaic acid, begin cautiously rather than immediately using it every day.
Start with a few applications per week, provided this is consistent with the product's instructions. Monitor your skin for dryness, stinging, burning, itching or persistent redness.
If your skin tolerates the product well, you may gradually increase how often you use it, following the manufacturer's directions.
Remember that a higher concentration does not necessarily mean better results. Your skin's tolerance and the complete formulation matter.
Step 4: Apply Moisturiser
Follow your azelaic acid product with a moisturiser suited to your skin.
Look for hydrating and moisturising ingredients such as glycerin, panthenol, ceramides and hyaluronic acid. These can help support skin hydration and comfort.
If your skin becomes dry or uncomfortable after introducing azelaic acid, simplify your routine and focus on gentle cleansing and moisturising until it settles.
Step 5: Use Sunscreen Every Morning
In the morning, finish your routine with a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30. Apply enough to cover exposed skin and reapply as directed, particularly when spending time outdoors.
Sunscreen is especially important when addressing the appearance of post-acne marks and uneven skin tone because ultraviolet exposure can contribute to pigmentation becoming darker or more noticeable.
Example Azelaic Acid Routine
Morning:
- Gentle cleanser.
- Hydrating toner, if suitable for your skin.
- Azelaic acid product, if its instructions and your skin's tolerance allow morning use.
- Moisturiser.
- Broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher.
Evening:
- Gentle cleanser.
- Hydrating toner, if suitable for your skin.
- Azelaic acid product, following its application instructions.
- Moisturiser.
You do not need to use azelaic acid both morning and evening. Start with a frequency your skin can tolerate and follow the product-specific directions.
If you are using other active ingredients, introduce them separately rather than changing several parts of your routine at once.
Can You Combine Azelaic Acid With Other Skincare Ingredients?
Azelaic acid can be incorporated into a skincare routine alongside other ingredients, but combining several active products may increase the likelihood of irritation. Consider the complete formulation of each product, not only its headline ingredient.
Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide
Niacinamide and azelaic acid can be included in the same skincare routine. Niacinamide is commonly used in formulations designed to support the skin barrier and improve the appearance of uneven skin tone.
Some azelaic acid products already contain niacinamide, including the Purito Seoul Azelaic Acid 10 Kojic Tea Tree Serum. Check the ingredient list before adding another niacinamide serum unnecessarily.
Azelaic Acid and Vitamin C
Both ingredients are used in skincare products targeting uneven-looking skin tone and the appearance of dark marks.
They do not automatically need to be used in separate routines. However, introducing both at the same time may make it difficult to identify which product is causing irritation.
If you want to use both, introduce one ingredient at a time and assess your skin's tolerance before adding the other.
Azelaic Acid and Retinol
Azelaic acid and retinol can be part of the same broader skincare routine, but using them together may be too much for some skin types, particularly when both products are new to your routine.
Consider introducing them on separate evenings initially. Avoid increasing the frequency of both products simultaneously, and use a moisturiser to support skin comfort.
If you experience persistent irritation, simplify your routine and discontinue the products causing discomfort.
Azelaic Acid and AHA or BHA Exfoliants
Take particular care when combining azelaic acid with exfoliating acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid or salicylic acid.
Some azelaic acid formulations already contain additional exfoliating ingredients. For example:
- Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum contains betaine salicylate.
- Anua Azelaic Acid 3 Cica Skin Clarifying Toner contains salicylic acid and glycolic acid.
Adding another exfoliating toner or serum may increase the overall intensity of your routine.
If you are new to these ingredients, avoid using multiple exfoliating products together. Introduce products separately and consider using them on different days, depending on your skin's tolerance and the product instructions.
The key takeaway: You do not need to combine several active ingredients to build an effective skincare routine. A simpler routine with products that suit your skin is often easier to maintain and assess.
Azelaic Acid vs Centella: Which One Do You Need?
Azelaic acid and Centella Asiatica are used for different purposes, although both may feature in routines designed for blemish-prone or easily irritated skin.
Azelaic acid is the more targeted ingredient to consider when addressing acne and certain forms of post-breakout pigmentation. Centella is commonly used to support skin comfort and soothe the appearance of irritation.
They are not interchangeable, and one is not universally better than the other. Depending on your skin's needs and the products you use, they may complement each other in a routine.
For a more detailed comparison, read our guide to Centella vs Azelaic Acid: Which Is Better for Acne, Redness and Dark Marks?.
How to Choose an Azelaic Acid Product in South Africa
When choosing an azelaic acid product, consider more than its percentage. The formulation, supporting ingredients, product format and your skin's tolerance all influence whether it is a suitable addition to your routine.
If you are exploring Korean azelaic acid skincare in South Africa, here are three formulations available from The Seoul Palette.
Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml
Shop Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum
This serum contains 10% azelaic acid alongside Centella Asiatica, panthenol, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, squalane and ceramide NP. Its formulation combines azelaic acid with ingredients commonly used in hydrating and skin-comfort-focused skincare.
What to consider: The ingredient list also includes betaine salicylate, an exfoliating ingredient. If you already use salicylic acid or other exfoliating products, consider this when planning your routine.
Purito Seoul Azelaic Acid 10 Kojic Tea Tree Serum 30ml
Shop Purito Seoul Azelaic Acid 10 Kojic Tea Tree Serum
This serum combines 10% azelaic acid with kojic acid, niacinamide, tea tree leaf water and tea tree leaf oil. It may appeal to those looking for a formulation that combines azelaic acid with ingredients commonly used in routines targeting blemishes and uneven-looking skin tone.
What to consider: Tea tree leaf oil may not suit everyone, particularly those whose skin is reactive to botanical oils. Introduce the product gradually and monitor your skin's response.
Anua Azelaic Acid 3 Cica Skin Clarifying Toner
Shop Anua Azelaic Acid 3 Cica Skin Clarifying Toner
This toner contains 3% azelaic acid, a 7-Cica Complex and glycyrrhizic acid. It offers a toner format with a lower stated azelaic acid concentration than the two serums above.
What to consider: Although the formula contains Cica ingredients, it also includes salicylic acid, glycolic acid and succinic acid, as well as tea tree leaf oil and rosemary leaf oil. These additional ingredients are important to consider if your skin is sensitive or if you already use exfoliating products.
Which Azelaic Acid Product Should You Choose?
There is no universally best azelaic acid product. A higher percentage does not automatically mean a product will be more effective or better suited to your skin.
Consider your main skin concerns, the complete ingredient list and the other active ingredients in your routine. If you are new to azelaic acid, choose one product and introduce it gradually rather than combining several azelaic acid formulations.
Check the individual product listing for current pricing, availability and directions before ordering. Your skin's tolerance and the overall formulation matter more than the percentage alone.
Common Azelaic Acid Mistakes to Avoid
Even a well-formulated skincare product may not suit every skin type or routine. Avoid these common mistakes when introducing azelaic acid.
Using Too Many Active Ingredients at Once
Combining azelaic acid with several exfoliating acids, retinoids or other treatment products may increase the likelihood of irritation.
Start with one new active product at a time. Give your skin an opportunity to adjust before introducing additional treatments.
Assuming a Higher Percentage Is Always Better
A 10% azelaic acid product is not automatically more suitable or effective for everyone than a 3% formulation.
The supporting ingredients, product type, overall formulation and your skin's tolerance all matter.
Using Multiple Azelaic Acid Products Together
Using an azelaic acid serum alongside an azelaic acid toner may introduce more active ingredients than your skin needs.
Choose one product initially. This also makes it easier to assess how your skin responds.
Ignoring Supporting Ingredients
Do not choose a product based only on its azelaic acid percentage.
Check the complete ingredient list. Some formulations also contain exfoliating acids, botanical oils or other active ingredients that may affect their suitability for your skin.
Increasing Application Frequency Too Quickly
Using a product more frequently than your skin tolerates may lead to dryness, stinging or irritation.
Begin gradually and follow the product-specific directions. Increase frequency only if your skin tolerates the formulation.
Skipping Moisturiser and Sunscreen
A treatment-focused routine still needs moisturising and daily sun protection.
Use a suitable moisturiser to help maintain skin comfort and broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day, particularly when addressing the appearance of post-acne marks and uneven tone.
Continuing Despite Persistent Irritation
Mild, temporary sensations do not necessarily indicate a problem, but persistent burning, itching, redness or discomfort should not be ignored.
Stop using the suspected product and simplify your routine. If symptoms are severe or do not settle, seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.
Frequently Asked Questions About Azelaic Acid
What is azelaic acid used for?
Azelaic acid is used in skincare and medical treatments for concerns including acne, certain symptoms of rosacea and uneven pigmentation. Its suitability and expected benefits depend on the formulation and the condition being treated.
Does azelaic acid help with dark spots?
It may help improve the appearance of certain forms of hyperpigmentation, including marks left after inflammation. Results vary, and not all pigmentation responds in the same way. Consistent sun protection is important.
Is azelaic acid good for acne-prone skin?
It can be useful for acne-prone skin because of its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. It may also help with certain forms of post-breakout discolouration. Persistent, painful or scarring acne may need professional treatment.
Can I use azelaic acid every day?
Azelaic acid frequency depends on the product formulation, its instructions and your skin's tolerance. If you are new to azelaic acid, start with a few applications per week, provided the product directions allow this. Monitor your skin for dryness, stinging or irritation before gradually increasing use. You do not need to use it every day to incorporate it into a skincare routine.
Does azelaic acid make skin more sensitive to the sun?
Azelaic acid is not generally considered a photosensitising ingredient. Nevertheless, daily sunscreen is important for protecting skin from ultraviolet radiation, particularly when addressing dark marks or using other active ingredients.
Can I use azelaic acid with niacinamide?
These ingredients may be compatible in a skincare routine, depending on the formulations and your skin's tolerance. Introduce new products gradually and avoid adding several potentially irritating active ingredients at once.
Can I use azelaic acid with retinol?
Azelaic acid and retinol can be included in the same broader skincare routine, but introducing both at once may increase the risk of irritation. If you are new to either ingredient, introduce them separately. You could initially use them on different evenings and monitor your skin's response before considering more frequent use.
Can I use azelaic acid with salicylic acid?
It depends on the formulation. Some azelaic acid products already contain exfoliating ingredients. For example, Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum contains betaine salicylate, while Anua Azelaic Acid 3 Cica Skin Clarifying Toner contains salicylic acid and glycolic acid. Check the full ingredient list before adding another exfoliating product. Using several exfoliating products together may increase the likelihood of irritation.
Is azelaic acid suitable for sensitive skin?
Azelaic acid may be an option for some people with sensitive skin, but suitability depends on the complete formulation and individual skin tolerance. Supporting ingredients such as exfoliating acids, botanical extracts and essential oils may also influence how your skin responds. Introduce one product at a time, follow its instructions and discontinue use if you experience persistent irritation. If you have a diagnosed skin condition or ongoing skin concerns, consult a qualified healthcare professional.
Is azelaic acid suitable for rosacea?
Azelaic acid is used in certain rosacea treatments, but not every cosmetic azelaic acid product is appropriate for every person with rosacea. If you have persistent redness, flushing or acne-like bumps, consult a healthcare professional about suitable treatment options.
Is 10% azelaic acid strong enough?
A 10% product may be a suitable cosmetic option for some people, but its effectiveness depends on the formulation and the concern being addressed. Higher concentrations are used in some medical treatments. A higher percentage is not automatically better for your skin.
Can I use azelaic acid in the morning?
Yes, you can use an azelaic acid product in the morning if its instructions allow morning application and your skin tolerates it. Apply it after cleansing, follow with moisturiser and finish with a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30. Reapply sunscreen as directed, particularly when spending time outdoors.
Explore Korean Skincare at The Seoul Palette
Azelaic acid is worth considering if you want to address concerns such as blemishes, post-breakout marks or uneven skin tone. Its versatility makes it an interesting ingredient, but choosing the right product still requires attention to your skin's needs and tolerance.
Start with one suitable product, keep your routine simple and give your skin time to respond. If you experience persistent irritation or have an ongoing skin condition, seek professional advice rather than pushing through discomfort.
Ready to explore your options? Browse The Seoul Palette's acne and blemish-care collection to compare available skincare products and check their individual ingredient lists.
Shop authentic Korean skincare online in South Africa, or explore local shopping options in Durban.
Disclaimer: This article is for general educational purposes and is not a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Skincare products vary in formulation and suitability. Consult a qualified healthcare professional for persistent acne, rosacea, significant pigmentation or ongoing skin irritation.