Choosing between AHA, BHA and PHA can feel confusing when Korean skincare products feature all three. Although these exfoliating ingredients share a common purpose, they work differently and may suit different skin concerns.
Some are commonly used to improve the appearance of dullness and uneven texture. Others are particularly useful for oily skin and clogged pores. And while certain exfoliants may be better tolerated than others, no acid is guaranteed to be irritation-free.
In this guide, we explain the differences between AHA, BHA and PHA, how to choose an exfoliant for your skin concerns, and how to introduce one into your Korean skincare routine without overdoing it.
Looking for Korean exfoliating skincare in South Africa? Explore The Seoul Palette's exfoliator collection and check current product availability.
AHA vs BHA vs PHA: What's the Difference?
AHAs, BHAs and PHAs are groups of ingredients commonly used in skincare to exfoliate the skin. The most suitable option depends on your skin concerns, the product's formulation and how well your skin tolerates exfoliation.
| Ingredient | Common examples | Common skincare uses | Important consideration |
|---|---|---|---|
| AHA | Glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid | Dullness, uneven texture and the appearance of uneven skin tone | Can irritate skin and increase sensitivity to sunlight |
| BHA | Salicylic acid | Oily skin, blackheads and clogged pores | Can cause dryness or irritation, especially with excessive use |
| PHA | Gluconolactone, lactobionic acid | Gentle surface exfoliation and hydration support | May be better tolerated by some people, but can still cause irritation |
These are general guidelines, not guarantees. The concentration, pH, other ingredients and directions for use all influence how a finished product performs.
1. AHA: For Dullness and Uneven Skin Texture
Alpha hydroxy acids, commonly called AHAs, are water-soluble exfoliating ingredients. They help loosen the bonds between dead skin cells at the skin's surface, supporting their removal.
AHAs are often included in skincare products designed to improve the appearance of dullness, rough texture and uneven skin tone.
Common AHA ingredients
Glycolic acid
Glycolic acid has a relatively small molecular size and is widely used in exfoliating formulations. Depending on the formula, it may help improve the appearance of rough texture, dullness and uneven tone.
However, a stronger or more frequent application is not necessarily better. Glycolic acid can cause irritation, particularly if your skin is sensitive or your skin barrier is already compromised.
Lactic acid
Lactic acid is another commonly used AHA. It can help exfoliate the skin's surface and is also associated with humectant properties, meaning it can help attract water.
Some people find a well-formulated lactic acid product easier to tolerate than a stronger glycolic acid product, but this is not guaranteed. The overall formulation and concentration matter.
Mandelic acid
Mandelic acid is an AHA with a larger molecular size than glycolic acid. It is sometimes chosen for formulations intended to provide a more gradual exfoliating effect. Individual tolerance still varies.
What skin concerns may benefit from AHAs?
AHAs may be worth considering if you are concerned about:
- Dull-looking skin.
- Rough or uneven skin texture.
- The appearance of uneven skin tone.
- Certain superficial signs of photoageing.
Results vary, and exfoliating acids do not address every cause of pigmentation or skin texture changes. Persistent or worsening pigmentation may need a more targeted approach.
What should you know before using an AHA?
AHAs can increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight. Introduce them cautiously, follow the product directions and use broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day.
If your skin is already stinging, peeling or persistently irritated, pause exfoliation rather than trying to correct the problem with a stronger acid.
2. BHA: For Oily Skin, Blackheads and Clogged Pores
Beta hydroxy acid, or BHA, is a term commonly used in skincare for salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which helps explain why it is frequently used in products intended for oily skin and pore congestion.
Unlike AHAs, which are commonly used for surface exfoliation, salicylic acid can help exfoliate within pores. It may help loosen the buildup of dead skin cells and oil associated with blackheads and clogged pores.
What skin concerns may benefit from BHA?
Salicylic acid may be a useful ingredient to explore if you experience:
- Blackheads.
- Oily skin.
- Congested-looking pores.
- Some forms of acne associated with clogged pores.
It is important to set realistic expectations. Salicylic acid does not permanently shrink pores, and it will not resolve every type of acne. Persistent, painful or scarring acne may require professional treatment.
Is BHA suitable for dry or sensitive skin?
Not automatically. Salicylic acid can cause dryness, tightness, peeling or irritation, particularly when used too frequently or alongside other potentially irritating products.
If your skin is dry or sensitive, consider whether exfoliation is necessary at all. If you decide to try a BHA product, choose one with clear usage instructions, introduce it cautiously and stop if persistent irritation develops.
3. PHA: An Alternative for Those Seeking Gentler Exfoliation
Polyhydroxy acids, or PHAs, are another group of exfoliating ingredients used in skincare. Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are common examples.
PHAs have larger molecular structures than many commonly used AHAs. They are often formulated for people looking for a gentler exfoliating approach. Some PHAs also have humectant properties that help attract water.
However, gentler does not mean irritation-free. A PHA product can still cause a reaction, particularly if the formula contains other irritating ingredients or is used too frequently.
What skin concerns may benefit from PHAs?
Depending on the formulation and your skin's tolerance, a PHA product may be worth considering if you want to address:
- Mild surface roughness.
- Dull-looking skin.
- Uneven texture.
- A preference for a potentially gentler exfoliating option.
If you have very reactive skin, eczema or rosacea, do not assume that a PHA is automatically suitable. Exfoliation may aggravate some skin conditions. Consider professional advice if you are unsure whether an exfoliating product is appropriate.
Are PHAs better than AHAs and BHAs?
Not necessarily. Each ingredient group has different characteristics, and the best choice depends on your concerns and tolerance.
If blackheads and clogged pores are your main concern, salicylic acid may be more directly relevant. If dullness and rough surface texture are your priorities, an AHA may be worth considering. A PHA may be an alternative if you prefer a potentially gentler exfoliating approach.
No single ingredient is best for everyone.
4. Which Exfoliant Should You Choose for Your Skin Concerns?
Rather than choosing an acid because it is trending, start with the concern you want to address.
If your skin looks dull or feels rough
An AHA such as lactic acid or glycolic acid may help improve the appearance of surface texture and dullness.
Start with a product suited to your experience level and follow its directions. You do not need to begin with a high-strength formula to build an effective routine.
If you struggle with blackheads and clogged pores
Salicylic acid may be a useful option because of its affinity for oil and its ability to exfoliate within pores.
If you also experience persistent acne, remember that exfoliation is only one possible part of an acne-care routine. You may find our guide to Korean skincare for acne-prone skin in South Africa helpful.
If you want to improve the appearance of uneven skin tone
AHAs may help improve the appearance of some forms of uneven tone over time. However, dark marks can have different causes, and an exfoliating acid is not always the most appropriate first step.
Daily sun protection is particularly important when addressing pigmentation. If your skin becomes irritated, inflammation can make some forms of discolouration more noticeable.
If your skin is easily irritated
Do not assume that you must exfoliate to achieve healthy-looking skin. A consistent routine with a gentle cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen may be a better starting point.
If you decide to try an exfoliant, a well-formulated PHA product may be worth considering, but patch testing and careful introduction remain important. Stop if you develop persistent burning, redness or worsening sensitivity.
If you live in Durban or another humid part of South Africa
Humidity can influence how comfortable a skincare product feels on your skin, but it does not automatically determine which exfoliating ingredient you need.
Consider your actual skin concerns, whether your skin is oily or dehydrated, and how your routine feels throughout the day. A lightweight formula may feel more comfortable in humid weather, but texture preference is different from choosing the right exfoliating ingredient.
South African sun exposure is also worth considering. Use broad-spectrum sunscreen and follow the precautions provided with your exfoliating product.
5. Can You Use AHA, BHA and PHA Together?
Some skincare products combine multiple exfoliating ingredients in a single formulation. These products are not automatically unsuitable, but their strength, formulation and directions matter.
Layering separate AHA, BHA and PHA products is a different matter. Using several exfoliants together can increase the likelihood of irritation, dryness and disruption to the skin barrier.
If you are new to exfoliation, it is usually more sensible to start with one exfoliating product rather than introducing several acids at once.
Take particular care when your routine also includes retinoids, benzoyl peroxide or other potentially irritating active ingredients. Whether products can be combined depends on the specific formulas and your skin's tolerance.
A simple rule: Introduce one new active product at a time. Give your skin an opportunity to adjust before considering another.
If your skin becomes persistently red, tight, flaky or uncomfortable, stop exfoliating until it settles. Seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional if symptoms are severe or do not improve.
6. What About Enzyme Exfoliants?
Not every exfoliating ingredient is an AHA, BHA or PHA. Some Korean skincare products use enzymes to help exfoliate the skin's surface.
Protease is a type of enzyme that breaks down proteins. Proteolytic enzymes used in skincare can help loosen and remove dead surface skin cells. This is a different exfoliation mechanism from hydroxy acids.
How Do Enzyme Exfoliants Compare with AHA, BHA and PHA?
The main difference is how these ingredients work and the skin concerns they are commonly used to address.
- AHA: Helps exfoliate the skin's surface and is commonly used for dullness, rough texture and the appearance of uneven skin tone.
- BHA: Salicylic acid is oil-soluble and can help exfoliate within pores, making it relevant to blackheads and clogged pores.
- PHA: Provides surface exfoliation and may be better tolerated by some people, depending on the formulation.
- Enzymes: Proteolytic enzymes such as protease break down proteins and are used to help remove dead surface skin cells.
Are Enzyme Exfoliants Gentler than AHAs and BHAs?
Not necessarily. Enzyme exfoliants are sometimes marketed as a gentler alternative to acid exfoliants, but this does not mean every enzyme product will be less irritating.
Tolerance depends on the particular enzyme, its concentration, the overall formulation, how often the product is used and your skin's condition.
If your skin is sensitive or easily irritated, do not assume that an enzyme exfoliant is automatically a safer choice than an AHA, BHA or PHA. Introduce it cautiously and follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Can You Use a Protease Enzyme Exfoliant Every Day?
There is no universal frequency that applies to every protease exfoliant. Some products may be formulated for more frequent use, while others are intended for occasional exfoliation.
Check the product's ingredients and usage instructions rather than assuming that all enzyme cleansers, powders, masks and exfoliating treatments can be used daily.
If you are new to enzyme exfoliation, introduce one product at a time. Avoid combining it with several other exfoliating products while assessing your skin's response.
Persistent burning, redness, peeling or discomfort are reasons to stop using the product rather than increase or maintain its frequency.
7. How to Introduce an Exfoliant Into Your Korean Skincare Routine
You do not need an elaborate routine to use an exfoliating product thoughtfully. A simple approach makes it easier to identify what works for your skin.
Step 1: Start with one product
Choose an exfoliating product based on your main skin concern. This may be an AHA, BHA, PHA or enzyme exfoliant. Avoid introducing multiple new exfoliants at the same time.
Step 2: Follow the product instructions
Different products have different strengths, application methods and recommended frequencies. Follow the label rather than assuming that every exfoliating toner, serum, pad or mask should be used in the same way.
If the product is leave-on, do not leave it on longer than instructed. If it is a rinse-off product, rinse it as directed.
Step 3: Support your skin barrier
Use a gentle cleanser and a moisturiser that suits your skin. Avoid adding multiple potentially irritating active ingredients while you are learning how your skin responds.
Exfoliation should not leave your skin persistently burning, raw or uncomfortable.
Step 4: Use sunscreen
Apply broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day and follow the sun-protection instructions for your exfoliating product. This is especially important with AHAs because they can increase sensitivity to sunlight.
Step 5: Pay attention to your skin
More exfoliation does not necessarily mean better results. If you notice persistent stinging, redness, excessive dryness or peeling, stop using the product.
You may need to reduce use, choose a different formulation or avoid exfoliation altogether. If symptoms persist, consult a qualified healthcare professional.
8. Common Exfoliation Mistakes to Avoid
Even a well-formulated exfoliant can become problematic if it is used incorrectly.
Using an exfoliant too frequently
Daily use is not appropriate for every formula or every skin type. Follow the product's recommended frequency and adjust only within its directions and your skin's tolerance.
Combining too many active ingredients
Layering multiple acids or combining them with other irritating actives can increase irritation. Introduce new products gradually.
Assuming tingling means the product is working
Burning, persistent stinging and significant redness are not signs that an exfoliant is doing a better job. Stop using the product if irritation develops.
Exfoliating an already irritated skin barrier
If your skin is peeling, unusually sensitive or uncomfortable, focus on gentle cleansing and moisturising instead of adding another exfoliant.
Skipping sun protection
Sun protection is an important part of a routine involving exfoliating acids. Follow the product instructions and use broad-spectrum sunscreen.
Choosing an ingredient based on skin type alone
Oily skin does not automatically need a BHA, and sensitive skin does not automatically need a PHA. Consider your actual concerns, the product's formulation and your skin's tolerance.
Frequently Asked Questions About AHA, BHA and PHA
Is AHA or BHA better for acne?
It depends on the type of acne and your skin's tolerance. Salicylic acid is commonly used for blackheads and clogged pores. AHAs are more commonly associated with surface exfoliation and improving the appearance of texture. Neither ingredient is guaranteed to resolve acne, and persistent or scarring acne may need professional treatment.
Is PHA better for sensitive skin?
PHA products may be better tolerated by some people, but they are not irritation-free. If your skin is highly reactive or you have a diagnosed skin condition, consider professional advice before introducing an exfoliating acid.
Can I use AHA and BHA in the same routine?
Some products are formulated to contain both, but layering separate products may increase irritation. If you are new to exfoliation, start with one product and follow its directions before considering additional actives.
How often should I exfoliate?
There is no universal frequency that suits every product and skin type. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and consider your skin's tolerance. Begin cautiously, particularly if you are new to acids or have sensitive skin. If irritation develops, stop rather than increasing or maintaining the frequency.
Does AHA help with dark spots?
AHAs may help improve the appearance of some forms of uneven skin tone, but they do not treat every cause of pigmentation. Consistent sun protection is important, and persistent or worsening dark spots may require a more targeted approach.
Can I use exfoliating acids in humid weather?
Humidity does not automatically make one exfoliating ingredient more suitable than another. Choose according to your skin concerns and tolerance, and consider whether the product's texture feels comfortable in your climate. Continue using appropriate sun protection.
Are enzyme exfoliants gentler than AHAs and BHAs?
Not necessarily. Enzyme exfoliants use enzymes such as protease to break down proteins, while AHAs and BHAs exfoliate through different mechanisms. Some people may tolerate a particular enzyme product well, but this does not mean all enzyme exfoliants are gentler. The formulation, concentration, frequency of use and individual skin tolerance all matter.
Do I need an exfoliant for healthy skin?
No. Exfoliation is optional, not an essential step for everyone. If your skin is comfortable and your routine meets your needs, you may not need a dedicated exfoliating product.
Find Your Korean Skincare Exfoliant
The best exfoliant is not necessarily the strongest or most popular one. It is the product that addresses your concerns, suits your skin's tolerance and fits comfortably into your routine.
AHAs may be worth exploring for dullness and uneven texture. Salicylic acid may be useful for blackheads and clogged pores. PHAs may offer a potentially gentler approach to surface exfoliation, although irritation is still possible.
Start with your skin's needs, introduce products cautiously and avoid treating exfoliation as a race towards faster results.
Explore Korean exfoliating skincare at The Seoul Palette. Browse our exfoliator collection and check current availability before choosing your next product.
The Seoul Palette helps South African skincare enthusiasts explore Korean skincare with a focus on informed product choices and practical routines.
Disclaimer: This article is for general educational purposes and is not a substitute for personalised medical advice. Skin concerns and product tolerance vary. Consult a qualified healthcare professional for persistent irritation, severe acne, rosacea or other ongoing skin conditions.